Comprehensive round up of all things icy from the absolute basics to modern mixed figure fours and leashless tools. Very trans-Atlantic and thus does not bear that much relationship to anything you might find or do in Scotland. That said, there is a lot of good stuff in here, especially for those seeking to climb some of the harder mixed routes or venturing on to continental icefalls.
Like its predecessor this fully revised and updated second edition features detailed instruction on technique - from the swing of the ice tool to the placement of the feet to combining actions for the greatest efficiency. New sections on climbing glacial ice and expanded discussion of dry-tool placement encourage ice and mixed climbers to get out year round, while a thoroughly revised chapter on training options help them get in top condition. The author has been climbing since, in his words, "dinosaurs wore crampons to Sunday school," and in this new edition he shares what you need to know to have fun while climbing ice and mixed routes.
Topics include:
- How to select and maintain essential gear including ice axes, ropes, ice screws, and more.
- What to wear when climbing in the cold, from helmets to crampons.
- Foundational ice climbing techniques and how to put them all together efficiently.
- Strategies for reading ice, selecting a line, and climbing it safely.
- Advanced techniques for climbing glacial ice and unusual ice patterns.
- Drytool footwork and movement tactics for mixed climbing.
- Tips for reducing risk when approaching, leading, and descending.
- Year-round training plans.
Excellent colour illustrations.
By Will Gadd, one of Canada's finest winter climbers.
Card cover, 21.5cm x 17.5cm, 320 pages.
Second edition 2025, published by Mountaineers Books.
ISBN: 978-1-68051-126-0.